Top Street Eats of Chinatown

Top Street Eats of Chinatown

We list top 24 spots for your Chinese New Year’s celebration.

1 Ek Teng Phu Ki

Ek Teng Phu Ki

Ek Teng Phu Ki is where Yaowarat’s Thai-Chinese grandpas gather for a cup of tea or coffee. A much lesser-known spot than similar cafes like Eiah Sa, the venue might be a bit intimidating for first-timers or non-regulars. A few minutes in, however, and you’ll start to enjoy the experience of spending a morning with these locals over cup of coffee (B17) or Chinese tea (B17) or a plate of boiled eggs (B18) or toasted bread (B10).

 

Phat Sai Rd.

02-221-4484

Open daily 03:00-21:30

 

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2 Kong Prasert

Kong Prasert

This shop can be easily overlooked as there’s no signage indicating its location from the main road. The menu is simple. When you order, keep it short and concise as the owner can get moody from time to time – the highlight is the curry stew sauce full of tangy and spice-filled aromatic. It’s best matched with the delicious khao mhoo dang mhoo grob (rice with crispy pork, char siu and entrails, B64). Braised mutton soup and suki are also worth trying, but we say, for your first time, stick with the rice and sauce.

 

Charoen Krung Soi 27

02-238-3587

Open Tue-Sun 10:00-18:30

 

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3 Pad Thai Ratchawong (Kikuya)

Pad Thai Ratchawong (Kikuya)

The original shop always has a long queue of people waiting for pad Thai (B35) made by an elderly couple with a big wok and a charcoal stove, and served in an adorable little banana leaf basket. Here is the same thing made by the younger generation. Portions are quite small and the dish looks quite plain, but each plate bursts with flavor and a well-rounded balance of sweet, sour and spicy tastes. Everything that goes into this dish – the soft and chewy noodles, garlic chives, fried duck egg, tofu, bean sprouts and peanuts – shine with every bite.

 

Mangkon Rd.

081-253-5961

Open Tue-Sun 11:00-14:00

 

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4 Tue Huan Song Pee Nong

Tue Huan Song Pee Nong

Situated in an old shophouse opposite the Plubpla Chai Police Station, this place serves classic and succulent tue huan giam chai (pork intestines in pickled cabbage soup, B50), which is great as an energy boost or even as a cure for hangovers. The entrails are very tender, and the soup has that sour yet refreshing taste of crispy pickled cabbage. Don’t forget to order the juk bee (thin and tight pork intestines filled with extra-soft sticky rice, B25). As an extra bonus, the juk bee has gingko nuts where most places put peanuts. A visit to the nearby market is also recommended after your meal.

 

Yommarat Sukhum Rd.

02-221-0443

Open Tue-Sun 09:00-13:00

 

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5 Khao Mun Gai Plaeng Nam

Khao Mun Gai Plaeng Nam

There’s always a debate on who does the best kao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice) in Bangkok, and this place is definitely not one to be overlooked. There are very few tables but the customer turnover is quite quick. The khao mun gai (B50) comes with beautifully steamed jasmine rice that’s soft and not swimming in grease, and chicken with thin and crispy skin and a good amount of chunky tender meat. They also offer both raw and cooked chicken by the kilogram for take away.

 

Plang Nam Rd.

02-623-1200

Open daily 08:00-16:00

 

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6 Kao Lao Jomyut

Kao Lao Jomyut

This shop specializes in kao lao nuea (braised beef soup with entrails, B80). Be patient as there’s only one lady who cooks bowl by bowl. The soup has a mild aroma and a savory sweetness, and boasts of perfectly cleaned and cooked entrails, thus each bowl delivers tender and juicy textures, and rich tastes. Our tip would be to enjoy this without rice (B10), which can decrease the sparkle of this vigorous bowl. Also, go early like 11:00 or before midday as they tend to run out very fast.

 

Phiphaksa Soi 1

02-221-7894

Open daily 11:00-16:00

 

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7 Kanom Jeeb Pae Siah

Kanom Jeeb Pae Siah

Keep your eyes out for a small cart in front of Wat Mongkol Samakom (Wat Yuan), which is outfitted with a brass steamer that has been producing freshly made, steamed shumai for more than 50 years. A thin dough wraps around a tasty filling of minced pork, dried shrimp, shiitake mushrooms and egg – and it’s only B5 per piece. Ask for the Chinese hot mustard if you want to spice things up.

 

Plang Nam Rd.

Open daily 11:00-19:00

 

 

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8 Tung Ngi Huad

Tung Ngi Huad

Hidden gem Tung Ngi Huad has been serving up comforting duck gruel for almost 70 years. A bowl contains a mix of duck, blood, and entrails (B50). The stock is rich and the meat is naturally sweet and fresh.

 

Plang Nam Rd.

02-221-6457

Open daily 11:00-23:00

 

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9 Khan Ki Namtao Thong

Khan Ki Namtao Thong

While people in Sukhumvit area are still going hyped on the cold press juice, locals of Yaowarat has been drinking this classic Chinese herbal juice for a very long time. Try the old-fashioned nam khom (bitter drinks, B10) which is a mix of different kinds of herbs. It's a bitter yet refreshing shot that helps washing down grease and works on your digestive system.

 

Charoen Krung Rd.

02-437-0131

Open Mon-Fri 09:00-17:00

 

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10 Khao Sia Poh

Khao Sia Poh

Located in front of a dark alley, Khao Sia Poh may look shady but fear not; this is definitely a must-try spot. Apart from the classic dishes in the menu, what you should try is sai grog tub, a treat that’s similar to Chinese sausage but made with liver and a clear fat filling that’s almost transparent. It's chewy and quite greasy; for those who love intestines, you will hardly find anything like this.

 

Charoen Krung Soi 19

Open daily 12:00-20:00

 

 

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11 Bua Loy Sam Kasat

Bua Loy Sam Kasat

Forget all the other bua loy (glutinous balls in coconut milk) stalls on Yaowarat Rd., Bua Loy Sam Kasat is where you should come for a good cup of the luscious dessert. A cup of hot coconut milk is filled with three flavors of glutinous balls (taro, pumpkin and pandan) that are not too floury or puffed up. Plus, the coconut milk and coconut chunks are not overly sweet. The sweet boiled-egg version (B25) is particularly recommended. The egg tastes as if it had been cooked sous vide – the egg white is silky and the egg yolk bright and runny — you may end up ordering only the eggs after the first bowl.

 

Charoen Krung Soi 14

Open daily 14:00-17:00

 

 

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12 Khao Gaeng Jek Pui

Khao Gaeng Jek Pui

This stall has one of the most iconic street eats in Yaowarat. Many know it as ‘musical chairs rice and curry’ – there are no tables, just lines of chairs. Take a peek at the curries of the day, find a seat, and give your order to the owner who remembers all requests without noting anything down (and there are always lots of diners). The food (starting from B30) is not so rich and strong in taste, giving off more simple and comforting flavors, as with the Chinese sausage. Khao Gaeng Jek Pui is definitely a fun and unique way to experience Chinatown.

 

Mangkon Rd.

02-222-5229

Open daily 16:00-20:00

 

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13 Yim Yim Restaurant

Yim Yim Restaurant

Yes, Yim Yim’s fare may not be considered street food. Rather, it is a place worth splurging on. Go onto the second floor of Tang Jai Yoo restaurant to be taken back to Yaowarat of the past. This third-generation Teochew restaurant is second to none, and all the Chinese dining customs are still present. Classic dishes include hue sae (Chinese raw fish topped with white sesame and sweet and spicy sauce, B400), hae guen (shrimp and pork wrapped in tofu skin, B25/pcs), and steamed butterfish with bean paste (B900). If you’re planning to celebrate Chinese New Year, you’ll get a chance to try their special dish, one made with rare winter bamboo shoots, which only grow in the snow on the mountains in China. The bamboo shoot is stir-fried with sun-dried Chinese turbot (B600) to create a well-balanced harmony of flavors.

 

Phat Sai Rd.

02-224-2203

Open daily 11:00-22:00

 

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14 Gui Chai Jae Noi

Gui Chai Jae Noi

Jae Noi and her staff’s gui chai (Chinese chive dumplings) are quite outstanding. All three selections – garlic chive, taro and jicama (B27 for 3 pieces) – are worth trying. We suggest going with the pan-fried version: hot, gooey, golden-crispy dumplings stuffed with a suitable amount of garlic chives.

 

Charoen Krung Rd.

Open Tue-Sun 11:00-15:00

 

 

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15 Laem Thong Pochana

Laem Thong Pochana

Many may have noticed the slow disappearance of street food stalls selling hard-to-find dishes in Bangkok. Authentic Hakka food is one of those cuisines, and there are only a few places left in Yaowarat that serve it. Laem Thong Pochana is one of these places. Here, Hakka food is done traditionally and cooked with a charcoal stove. You will find dishes you have never heard of before, with tastes and flavors different from familiar Teochew or Cantonese fare. The fu gien tod (fried tofu skin filled with seasoned pork, B100) is crisp, wonderful and flavorful, and will make you forget everything you thought you knew about tofu. Also, don't miss out on the tao hu pad kao mhak (stir fried tofu with fermented rice, B200) and lookshin shaitao (daikon balls; available randomly, B100).

 

Charoen Krung Soi 12

02-224-3591

Open daily 10:00-19:00

 

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16 Lieo Lieng Seng (Ice Cream Ratchawong 555)

Lieo Lieng Seng (Ice Cream Ratchawong 555)

This century-old restaurant, known among serious foodies who love Lao restaurant, has relocated from Sam Yan to its new home in this old-town area. Popular dishes include guay tiew lod pu (Chinese wide noodles rolled with crab meat, 120), Teochew shumai (B15/pcs), aor suan (oyster pancake, B200) and yi mein (fried egg noodles topped with Chinese ham, B200). Whatever you do, don’t pass on their superb durian ice cream (B90), a really rich and intense treat that would make any durian lover fall in love at first bite.

 

Rama 4 Rd.

02-221-6025

Open daily 10:30-22:30

 

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17 Lim Lao Sa

Lim Lao Sa

There are many fishball noodles in Bangkok, but Lim Lao Sa is one of those long-standing names that people remember. Open for only a few hours in the evening in the quiet Song Wat area, the eatery makes everything fresh from scratch daily, from the fishballs and the dumplings to the very popular egg noodles. Order the Ba mhee hang (dry egg noodles with toppings, B60) and sen yai nam (wide-noodle soup, B60). Make sure to order all you want in one go or you may have to wait up to an hour for succeeding orders.

 

Song Wat Rd.

083-138-3636

Open daily 18:30-22:00

 

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18 Pa Jin Hoi Krang

Pa Jin Hoi Krang

Pa Jin, another popular spot in Yaowarat is a tiny stall selling cockles and mussels. Shells are properly cleaned before they’re blanched to your preferred doneness. The cockles and mussels (both B100/serving) don’t come in big portions, but they do taste fresh and juicy. And when they are this fresh, you would want to eat them as they are, even without the accompanying dipping sauce.

 

Phadung Dao Rd.

081-795-1839

Open Mon-Sat 18:30-01:00, Sun 17:00-00:00

 

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19 Guay Tiew Lord Porn Chai

Guay Tiew Lord Porn Chai

This small stall serves only one thing but does it really well: guay tiew lord (stuffed noodle rolls, B50). This dish, which comes with crispy squid and sweet and salty pork in brown sauce and tons of garlic, is so good that you will end up asking for more even though the portion is quite big. Don’t forget to zest up the dish with pickled chili sauce.

 

Yaowarat Rd.

081-903-9151

Open daily 18:00-01:00

 

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20 Jui Guay

Jui Guay

This hard-to-find dish, jui guay (Chinese steamed dumplings with sweet and salty sautéed takuan, B40), is really something to be merry about when it comes to Chinatown eats. The friendly owner makes it fresh every day, and the takuan topping is a real winner.

 

Yaowa Phanit Rd.

Open Tue-Sun 18:00-00:00

 

 

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21 Mhoo Thoon En Thoon Mhor Din Jao Gao Bang Rak

Mhoo Thoon En Thoon Mhor Din Jao Gao Bang Rak

Sometime in the evening, before the clock hits 10, you will find people standing in front of winding-down food stalls, waiting for the arrival of this big truck which serves braised pork and pork tendon soup in a claypot. Grab a seat and order a pot, or two, of gao lao (B60). Enjoy the warmth of an aromatic, sweet quasi-clear soup full of pork balls, meat, and tendons. God only knows how they make the tendon so soft and clear; we just know that it’s so good that you will want to ask for a double portion.

 

Yaowarat Rd.

Open Tue-Sun 22:00-01:00

 

 

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22 Double Dogs

Double Dogs

Located in a small shophouse within the hectic central part of Yaowarat, Double Dogs is a teahouse that has been revived from generation to generation. The vibe here may be quite tense, but – fear not – the owner, Jongrak Kittiworakarn, promises that you will find all kinds of tea, from classic brews to tea in surprising cocktails. All the tea at Double Dogs are sourced from China, Taiwan and Japan. An extensive list includes blends such as pu-erh, oolong and green tea, tea-injected cocktails, and even aromatic beer infused with tea.

 

Yaowarat Rd.

086-329-3075

Open Tue-Thu 13:00-21:00, Fri-Sun 13:00-22:00

 

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23 Pae Jai

Pae Jai

This new hub of bars and galleries is not all about renovated shophouses; it’s also home to some stalls peddling comforting street food, like Pae Jai. Check out the plates here before you start drinking at nearby Teens of Thailand. Their pad see eiw (Stir-fried noodles with Chinese kale and soy sauce, B50) is cooked on a charcoal stove. The results: smoky notes and nice, flavorful textures that are neither too oily nor over-seasoned. For some reason, this dish tastes even better with the smell of Chinese medicine floating in the air.

 

Soi Nana

089-691-5200

Open Mon-Sat 17:00-22:00

 

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24 Sawang

Sawang

This long-standing institution, which serves egg noodles with crabmeat and claws, is loved by locals and is constantly talked about online. The focus is usually on the crab, but we say just ignore it and get a taste of the authentic silky egg noodles instead, served with amazing roasted pork (B50) plus another B20 for a bowl of soup. We encourage you to visit soon as we are told that they will relocate to Si Phraya Road near Wat Kaew Jam Fah this June.

 

Rama 4 Rd.

02-236-1772

Open daily 17:00-23:00

 

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